Monday, May 30, 2011

6 Small Rooms

Before I go any further about the array of subjects I'm keen to write about on Naples I want to set the scene of my base camp called 6 Small Rooms.

A guesthouse and hostel, this oasis resides in the historical centre of Naples and is an affordable, comfortable and charming rest for travellers that was described in a recent review as 'shabby chic'.  It is a relief to arrive on the third floor after climbing the 100 steps knowing you are about to eat all the pizza and pastry you saw on your way there because those stairs are going to work it off for you.

Established in 1999, the hostel is owned and run by Jenny, an Australian who lives in Naples with her daughter Alyn, two dogs (also frequent lunch time visitors to the hostel) and two cats.  Simon (pictured above), is a permanent resident of the hostel and is relatively famous because his name has appeared in a few travel guide books and is often asked about on arrival by guests.  He is much admired especially by those who appreciate cats.  He lies on my bed as I write this providing me with inspiration.  He even has his own Facebook but is selective about who he befriends.

6 Small Rooms is a familiar to me as I lived here in 2000, had a quick visit in 2010 and am now living here again in 2011.  The murals on the walls of the hostel were painted by guests who stayed over the years and are a great conversation topic and wall decoration.  The building itself was built in the 1700s by Spanish settlers not far from Naples' Spanish Quarter off via Toledo.

The balconies of the hostel that face onto via Diodato Lioy where the hostel is lets in light and sea breeze from the bay of Naples which is a ten minute stroll away.  Horns and engines revs from cars and vespas punch up to the rooms amidst the passionate voices of the surrounding families who live in the apartments in the narrow street.  Washing waves like flags and colours the grey facade of the buildings.  Neighbourhood conversations curl in and out of traffic and earshot.  Mothers call their sons from playing football in the Monte Oliveto Piazza or down the narrow lane, hitting as many cars with the cheap orange plastic ball as they rush home.  Couples often lean from their balconies watching the foot traffic below observing almost meditatively all that goes on around them.

The mousey squeak of swallows as they whizz around the sky and disappear as quickly from sight before they return minutes later.  Ship horns can be heard from the port before they depart for the southern coast and islands and the constant creak and slam of the iron door on the street level of the hostel as guests come and go fondling reminds me of a screen door that swings and slaps open and close throughout summer.

The guests at the hostel range in age from teenagers to octogenarians.  Families with young children, groups of 20 somethings or the lone intrepid traveller are frequent guests.  When there's a good mix of ages and cultures it is great to see them come together to talk, cook and share meals.  The beauty of the hostel is that the rooms are on the one floor in a circular pattern facing a large internal opening in the middle of the building where one can see from one side of the hostel across to the other and the domestic sounds of the residents resonate.  Each room opens onto another room and this open space encourages people to be open and friendly.

The kitchen is a generous room with a large table where travel and cultural experiences are exchanged and where breakfast is supplied by the hostel.  Quality produce can be bought and prepared for lunch and or dinner if so suits.  The lounge is very much like a family home, one big couch, three armchairs, a television for watching dvd's when exhausted for too much else and a bookshelf full of travel and guide books.  Various maps on the wall inform and inspire guests as well.  The dormitories have no double bunks and the rooms are spacious with high ceilings and comfortable beds.

What needs to be appreciated in very old buildings such as this one is that the plumbing can be a problem on occasions and the only small part about 6 small rooms are the bathrooms.  They are not as generous in space as we may be used to back home but they're functional and welcoming particularly after a long day walking around Pompei.  Consider it bathroom yoga as you learn to balance your body whilst showering, drying and dressing in a small space.  I know my balance has improved since I've been here because of the bathrooms.

The hostels central location is prime to those who want to explore the more interesting parts of Naples as it is in walking distance to the central station and port as well as the most amazing historical sites you could wish to see.  Fresh local produce is obtainable very close by from fishmongers, butchers, fruit and vegetable stalls, bakers and deli's along with restaurants, clothes shops and bars.

Jenny and staff are friendly, helpful and a great catalyst to making guests feel included, comfortable and looked after.  Guests are complimentary about 6 Small Rooms and often extend their stay due to the support, relaxation and rejuvenation it offers.  So expand your Neapolitan experience when exploring Naples by starting at 6 Small Rooms.

ciao
hellsbells

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