Monday, May 30, 2011

6 Small Rooms

Before I go any further about the array of subjects I'm keen to write about on Naples I want to set the scene of my base camp called 6 Small Rooms.

A guesthouse and hostel, this oasis resides in the historical centre of Naples and is an affordable, comfortable and charming rest for travellers that was described in a recent review as 'shabby chic'.  It is a relief to arrive on the third floor after climbing the 100 steps knowing you are about to eat all the pizza and pastry you saw on your way there because those stairs are going to work it off for you.

Established in 1999, the hostel is owned and run by Jenny, an Australian who lives in Naples with her daughter Alyn, two dogs (also frequent lunch time visitors to the hostel) and two cats.  Simon (pictured above), is a permanent resident of the hostel and is relatively famous because his name has appeared in a few travel guide books and is often asked about on arrival by guests.  He is much admired especially by those who appreciate cats.  He lies on my bed as I write this providing me with inspiration.  He even has his own Facebook but is selective about who he befriends.

6 Small Rooms is a familiar to me as I lived here in 2000, had a quick visit in 2010 and am now living here again in 2011.  The murals on the walls of the hostel were painted by guests who stayed over the years and are a great conversation topic and wall decoration.  The building itself was built in the 1700s by Spanish settlers not far from Naples' Spanish Quarter off via Toledo.

The balconies of the hostel that face onto via Diodato Lioy where the hostel is lets in light and sea breeze from the bay of Naples which is a ten minute stroll away.  Horns and engines revs from cars and vespas punch up to the rooms amidst the passionate voices of the surrounding families who live in the apartments in the narrow street.  Washing waves like flags and colours the grey facade of the buildings.  Neighbourhood conversations curl in and out of traffic and earshot.  Mothers call their sons from playing football in the Monte Oliveto Piazza or down the narrow lane, hitting as many cars with the cheap orange plastic ball as they rush home.  Couples often lean from their balconies watching the foot traffic below observing almost meditatively all that goes on around them.

The mousey squeak of swallows as they whizz around the sky and disappear as quickly from sight before they return minutes later.  Ship horns can be heard from the port before they depart for the southern coast and islands and the constant creak and slam of the iron door on the street level of the hostel as guests come and go fondling reminds me of a screen door that swings and slaps open and close throughout summer.

The guests at the hostel range in age from teenagers to octogenarians.  Families with young children, groups of 20 somethings or the lone intrepid traveller are frequent guests.  When there's a good mix of ages and cultures it is great to see them come together to talk, cook and share meals.  The beauty of the hostel is that the rooms are on the one floor in a circular pattern facing a large internal opening in the middle of the building where one can see from one side of the hostel across to the other and the domestic sounds of the residents resonate.  Each room opens onto another room and this open space encourages people to be open and friendly.

The kitchen is a generous room with a large table where travel and cultural experiences are exchanged and where breakfast is supplied by the hostel.  Quality produce can be bought and prepared for lunch and or dinner if so suits.  The lounge is very much like a family home, one big couch, three armchairs, a television for watching dvd's when exhausted for too much else and a bookshelf full of travel and guide books.  Various maps on the wall inform and inspire guests as well.  The dormitories have no double bunks and the rooms are spacious with high ceilings and comfortable beds.

What needs to be appreciated in very old buildings such as this one is that the plumbing can be a problem on occasions and the only small part about 6 small rooms are the bathrooms.  They are not as generous in space as we may be used to back home but they're functional and welcoming particularly after a long day walking around Pompei.  Consider it bathroom yoga as you learn to balance your body whilst showering, drying and dressing in a small space.  I know my balance has improved since I've been here because of the bathrooms.

The hostels central location is prime to those who want to explore the more interesting parts of Naples as it is in walking distance to the central station and port as well as the most amazing historical sites you could wish to see.  Fresh local produce is obtainable very close by from fishmongers, butchers, fruit and vegetable stalls, bakers and deli's along with restaurants, clothes shops and bars.

Jenny and staff are friendly, helpful and a great catalyst to making guests feel included, comfortable and looked after.  Guests are complimentary about 6 Small Rooms and often extend their stay due to the support, relaxation and rejuvenation it offers.  So expand your Neapolitan experience when exploring Naples by starting at 6 Small Rooms.

ciao
hellsbells

Friday, May 27, 2011

The New Black & Garbage

Should you arrive in Naples via the Central Station at Piazza Garibaldi you may start to have second thoughts about Naples even if you had no first thoughts.  The station itself is no painting and the area surrounding it is filled with lost souls and lost tourists.  The good thing at this point is that it will all get better.

Travellers who walk, bus or train it from Central Station are then appalled at the amount of garbage that builds and spreads so far it can block a footpath and at times roads.

"What's going on with the garbage?"  is often the first thing I hear when people arrive at the guesthouse and it is never easy to explain.  If I say it's political, of course, and involves the Mafia and contention about the method of disposing the garbage it still appears that the inquirers question isn't answered.

As shocking as it is the garbage fascinates me as I haven't seen bags and bags of it pile up in so many parts of a city.  Could it be an installation? I imagine some thinking, and in a way, it could look that way.  It's a reminder to me of human waste on display because usually we're so good at keeping our waste hidden.

Neapolitans often react to the uncollected rubbish by setting fire to it and hang the expense of what else is likely to go up with it, namely cars, shop fronts, recycle bins and news stands.

There is also humour amongst the garbage.  One person put a note on their garbage before sitting it in the pile-up asking, 'please don't touch my garbage'.

The garbage slumps on black flagstones and black cobbled streets and sometimes grey black buildings.  Grey is a fabulous colour and if you want to learn about how many shades there are you will see it here.

It never smells as much as I expect it to and I'm not sure why. The uncollected garbage is a a temporary thing that has cropped up intermittently over the past 3 years and after the local elections hopefully it will be resolved, again.

The accompaniment to the garbage is the graffiti, it's everywhere!  Some of it is great, some not so great.  For me, I like most of it if the colour is right. What shocked me at first is that it is sprayed on to ancient statues, buildings, churches, homes, doors, shop fronts or anything that stands still long enough.  Graffiti is not just in Naples, Paris has its fair share of it as well as other major cities around the world but it would be safe to say it's excessive here.  When I went to Siena a few weeks back, I din't see any graffiti on the medieval buildings and streets so perhaps graffiti is a city thing.

I understand how it saddens people to see such old constructions defaced by graffiti but I often look at the people who live in and around it, and quite possibly people who actually did the graffiti and somehow it works, a mix of the old and the new, the wealth and the poverty, the beautiful and the ugly, the bland and the colourful because this is what Naples is and more.

When I go for walks I see the garbage but I don't react to mainly because I'm used to it but more so because it is dominated by such fantastic buildings and colourful visuals of the shops, streets and people. So, when you decide to visit Naples know that you will get past the station and the garbage to enjoy the buzzing gallery of Neapolitan streets.

Ciao
hellsbells

via Tribunali





via Monte Oliveto

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Where to begin

In 2000 I moved to Naples for the first time and fell in love with the city from the minute I stepped out of Montesanto metro station.  The streets came to life then as they do now 11 years later.  This blog is to share my passion for Naples, the city with the not-so-good reputation which is not my experience at all.  When I meet travellers who say they have heard a lot of bad things about Naples I ask them did anything happen to them or the person that told them the story and often the reply is, no!  Many 'stories' are passed on and so the myth builds.

It would be unwise to suggest that certain things don't happen in Naples and I am certainly not saying that. But it is also good to remember that bad things can happen anywhere and it would be a shame to miss out on visiting or living in one of the most amazing and lively cities that I have come across or lived in to date.

This blog is to share with those who read it all that I have explored and found in this jumble jewel box of a place over three visits and 11 years.  Without fail, every time I step out into the streets there is always something new to see and discover.  The boredom factor is ZERO.

There are also elements of Naples that are frustrating, infuriating, dirty and somewhat depressing, yet it all adds to the excitement and earthiness.

As a reluctant guide book reader, all that I wish to post on my site is from what I have experienced from an amateur explorers point of view.  It will range from food, islands, churches, graffiti, garbage, Neapolitans, traffic, shopping, begging and travel to surrounding areas as well as other issues such as leg waxing and hairstylists.

If you read this blog and would like to know more about my time here it would be encouraging to me and I will look forward to hearing about your Neapolitan experience.

Arrivederci
hellsbells