Le Isole Al Sole

Water of Capri

Islands have to evoke some positive image in most peoples’ minds when it comes to the mention of the word.  Naples has three not far from its shoreline and each offers something completing different to its visitor.

Capri (pronounced car-pree), the most famous, Procida (pronounced pro-schee-da) and Ischia (pronounced iss-kee-a) are approximately an hour away by boat give or take 20 minutes.  Fast or slow boats will get you there, varying in price, by several boat companies.

 Each island offers its own attractions and benefits yet I declare my favourite of them all is Procida.  Capri is without a doubt, a beautiful island.  The deepest blue water, pristine buildings, happy coloured boats and a buzz of activity with open-top shiny taxis, white pants, blue shirts and mirrored sunglasses.  Smooth white pebbles edge the shoreline with patches of sand coveted by those who don’t want to pay for the day beds and umbrellas that soften the impact from the smooth white rocks.  The gentle rise up to Ana Capri holds the best of hotels, expensive cafes and restaurants and designer clothes shops.  Porters run up and down the narrow streets carrying the luggage of the rich and possibly famous although I haven’t seen any one that I know of yet – they’re probably dropped in by helicopter.  Just past this hub of activity is the drop to a stunning view and the prettiest colour of water to my eyes.  A winding path runs down to waters edge and another nucleus of homes. 

Capri

There is nothing on Capri that reflects the surface grime or graffiti of Naples.  The sun shines on every street and shade is provided by green shrubs and palms rather than tall buildings.  It’s like a film-set really and one that I’m very happy to be on, yet if only I could afford it.  Catching the 7.35am boat that takes an hour will get me there for just over 9 euro or almost double that if I take a fast boat.  It is refreshing to be down at the port and then boating on calm water heading to an island when there is a semblance of quiet and nature can be appreciated before the traffic devours it. 

The Carthusian perfumery established in 1948 uses formulas that date back to 1380 that originated on the island and its distillery and shop front still operate today. Food and drink are rudely overpriced so to bring a packed lunch is advised if you’re on a budget or just object to being overcharged.  Being on Capri makes me feel part of the rich and famous even though it’s just for a day.

Ischia

The first thing I was ever told about Ischia is that it’s big in size and not really an island to walk around on foot and much frequented by German tourists for the thermal baths.  I visited Ischia for the first time last week and found it a very different environment to Capri and Procida.  The island is big, as was told, and so has a lot more traffic on it, the four-wheeled as well as the foot kind.  The shops are somewhat like the Gold Coast in Australia hosting a generic-range of brightly coloured resort-wear along with an excess of retailers trying to attract those who ‘have to shop’.  I could easily fit into this category but not for this kind of merchandise.  Many of the people on the Ischia dress for Carnivale as opposed to the Ralph-Lauren fashionista’s of Capri.   The accommodation looked unpretentious and relaxing and prompting a memory of holiday on Magnetic Island as child.

The streets are pleasant to walk around and the beaches are of volcanic brown/black sand.  Due to the hills or small mountains on Ischia, a motorised vehicle is possibly the way to see most of it.  The water isn’t the fantastic blue of Capri but I’ve been told that there are better beaches at other parts of the island accessible by bus, than the one I went to near the Port.  It was disappointing that there weren’t take away food stalls for lunch because I always like to try some savoury, delicious treat when out and about for the day but they only sold take away sweet pastries and gelato.  The restaurants were geared towards tourists to sit down only so that they’re charged accordingly although  I don’t begrudge them making a living.  Luckily I had packed a panini of my own making.  I look forward to another visit to Ischia to explore beyond the Port area. 

Procida

Procida was first experienced in 2000 when I, and a friend from the Netherlands, arrived early one morning at 7.00am.  As we hadn’t had breakfast we ventured toward a café soon after disembarking from the boat.  Hunger provided a great appreciation for the just baked caramelised onion and rosemary focaccia, followed by several coffees.  Well passed hunger, I ordered another round, as I couldn’t get enough of the sweet, salty flavour of the onion, herb and bread.  Italians in the south of Italy are good at putting salt in their bread.  (When eating bread in Siena I was rudely shocked that anything Italian could fall way short of southern standards).  We were offered a coffee referred to as Café Corretto, which is coffee with a dash of Grappa.  They may have assumed that to be up so early it was possible we hadn’t gone to bed at all and so needed a ‘hair of the dog’ to put us in good stead for the day.  The name of the coffee translates to ‘coffee corrected’ hence the Grappa correcting the hangover.  I have to say I like my coffee pure in the morning and so didn’t indulge.

Procida

Walking around Procida back then held no evidence of any tourist invasion or visit for that matter.  More people are visiting this great little island and I noted that there are more shops now around the Port than I recall.  I hope that the islands harmless and gorgeous winding streets with beautifully dilapidated and colourful homes aren’t changed.  The sand too is dark and the water appears green/brown and washes in with barely a wave or white foam.  Fishing is still its primary industry as I understand it to be and I love the purple, blue and orange fishing nets wound and twisted like thick hair in a chignon that slump on the wharfs with the weight of a resting seal.  Cork floats bejewel the nets and are as decorative to the eye as the fish they catch in them.

Procida is very walkable and if you're a romantic like myself it's the best way to see things.  There are a couple of beaches where one can swim and another area for snorkelling.  Food is found in restaurants that are not always seen from the street, for instance, one that I have frequent sits on the side of a hill which runs down to the beach.  The restaurants roof is covered in thin, cane blinds, the same colour as the sandy cliffs overgrown with prickly pear or Indian Fig as the locals refer to them.  Inside the space the entrance to the crazy paving floor is dusted in sand leading to a small floor bath to clean the feet before sitting down.  Patterned ceramic jugs hold the house wines that I find perfect to drink with lunch, as I don’t feel sleepy when consuming them.  Seafood is definitely my favourite meat to eat when it is cooked properly (i.e. not overcooked and lightly seasoned with lemon and salt) and my craving for it is always heightened around sea air.  To enjoy my lunch whilst looking over the beach has got to be the best aid for good digestion.

Ischia

The 1994 Michael Radford directed film, Il Postino, was partly shot on Procida and the building used for the inn where the character, Beatrice Russo worked remains today.  I was thrilled to find the location of the building, as the film is a favourite of mine.  Procida has the pace that appeals to me when being on an island and all the walking, swimming and eating provide me with all the contentment that I need.

As passionate as I feel about Procida I hope that you can visit and explore for yourself if you’re lucky enough to get there, and to create your own lovely memories of this island along with Capri and Ischia.  

Ciao, hellsbells